A celebration of 15 years and the AW25 King Island Collection with búl designer Virginia Martin

How does it feel to look back on 15 years of the label?

It feels surreal, in the best way. Fifteen years ago, when I started, I could never have imagined that we’d be where we are today. It’s a real journey of growth, and I’m so grateful for the community of customers, artisans, and collaborators who have supported the label along the way. Every collection tells a different story, and this one—our 31st—is very special, not only because it’s inspired by King Island, but because it marks a moment of reflection on what the brand has become.

What was it about King Island that sparked your creative process for this collection?

King Island is such an evocative place. It has a raw, untamed energy, shaped by constant winds, coastal cliffs, and windswept beaches. There’s a quiet yet powerful beauty to it, and that’s what really captured my imagination.

I flew out from Barwon Heads with King Island Surf Safaris, and the experience was incredible. The flight was just over an hour, and from the moment I landed, I fell in love with the place. The island is tiny, but there’s so much character. You can drive from one end to the other, and it has this charming small-town vibe where everyone still waves as they pass by.

I spent a few days there, soaking in the landscape—4WDing across the island, tasting the famous scallop pies at the local bakery, and visiting the quirky boathouse (known as 'the restaurant with no food'), where you can gather around the fire and buy art on an honesty box system. The surf, especially at Martha Lavinia Beach, was also a huge inspiration. The world-class 'A-frame' waves really reflect the island's wild beauty.

The landscape is rich in texture, with dark forests, bright coastal grasses, and rocky shores. I wanted to capture that feeling in the collection—pieces that are both grounded and elevated. It’s about translating that sense of place—not just in the colours, but in the textures and silhouettes, too. King Island feels untouched by time, and I wanted the collection to reflect that timelessness.

Your approach has always been centred around a "less but better" philosophy. How does that fit into this collection?

I’ve always believed that fewer, more thoughtfully crafted pieces make a bigger impact. King Island inspired me to focus on creating items that feel as though they could stand the test of time, both in terms of their design and their longevity. Nature itself is so resilient, and I wanted to reflect that in the collection. The silhouettes are simple, but every detail has been carefully considered. The fabrics, the finishes, the cuts—they all have to work in harmony, not just for the season, but for many years to come. It’s about creating pieces that become part of your life, not just your wardrobe.

What styles can we expect to see in this new collection? Are there any standout pieces that you’re particularly excited about?

This collection is all about versatility and texture. You’ll find a mix of structured and relaxed pieces that play with the contrasts of the landscape.

There’s a focus on outerwear, with items that have a strong, architectural silhouette—from oversized wool coats with slanted pockets, to refined, double-breasted blazers with subtle detailing that reflect the rugged lines of the island's cliffs. Then there are the more fluid pieces—a lot of draped dresses and knitwear, like soft, oversized jumpers and cable-knit cardigans that feel incredibly cozy and refined.

What I’m really excited about, though, are the textures and the craftsmanship. The way the fabrics feel—soft but substantial—reflects that King Island energy. Everything has a sense of ease, but also an understated elegance.

King Island is known for its dramatic weather and treacherous waters, shifting between intense winds and quiet, peaceful moments. How did you incorporate this sense of contrast into the designs?

King Island’s weather is so unpredictable. You’ll see that reflected in the balance between structure and fluidity in the silhouettes—some pieces have a lot of shape and tailored detail, while others are looser and more draped. The colour palette continues the contrast with rich tones of earthen browns, burgundy, ocean greens and stormy blues, balanced with softer tones of lilac, sky blue and lighter checks. We’ve also explored two studio-designed prints that sit as stark contrasts to each other, one structured and refined, the other abstract and motion-blurred.

For this collection, how did you choose materials that reflect the spirit of King Island?

I’ve always prioritised natural fabrics wherever possible, and this collection is no different. The textures in the collection were inspired directly by the landscape—the softness of the coastal grasses, the roughness of the cliffs, the smoothness of the rocks. We’ve used a lot of 100% merino wool, alpaca and wool blends, which have a natural warmth and texture. You’ll also find cotton, tencel and cupro that speak to the lighter, more ethereal qualities of the island, alongside explorations of organic cotton and recycled nylon for the first time, which is a new direction for the label.

Your designs are known for being thoughtful and versatile. How does that translate into the wearability of this collection?

Wearability is key. I want each piece to feel like a personal investment, something that can be worn in a variety of ways across different occasions. For this collection, I’ve really focused on creating pieces that can transition easily between work and leisure, day and night. There are versatile outerwear pieces that work in layered outfits but also function beautifully on their own. The colour palette is intentionally muted to allow for mixing and matching, so the collection is both easy to wear and easy to style. Each item is designed with comfort in mind too—warmth, softness, and practicality are just as important as aesthetics.

As you commemorate 15 years with this collection, how do you envision the next chapter? What’s on the horizon?

I think it’s always important to evolve, but to stay true to your core values. For us, that’s about creating thoughtful, lasting pieces, and remaining conscious of our impact on the planet. In the future, I see us continuing to honour these values while also introducing more innovative fabrics and functional design elements. I’m excited to continue exploring ways to merge beauty with practicality, and to bring new inspiration into each collection. I believe the journey is what keeps it all exciting.

Before we wrap up, any personal highlights from your 15-year journey that stand out?

Oh, so many! But if I had to choose, it would definitely be the connections I’ve made along the way. Meeting people who truly understand and appreciate what we’re trying to do—whether it’s our customers, our team, or the artisans who help bring our designs to life—has been such a rewarding part of this journey. Fashion is so much more than just clothes; it’s about creating something that resonates with people on a deeper level. That’s the part of this journey I cherish the most.