If you’ve ever attended a runway show, you’ll know that, beyond the clothes themselves, there’s a lot to take in. There’s the people watching (arguably one of the best things about fashion events is seeing the creative, sophisticated, occasionally out-there outfits of those attending), the pumping music, the buzzing atmosphere. Though it’s often over within about 20 minutes, the best ones leave a lasting impression. Above everything though, they should inspire you to get creative with your own wardrobe, and you can thank the show stylists for that.

Merchandising the clothes — that is, showing the customer how they could wear the pieces — is one of the most important aspects of when it comes to inspiring show-goers, and is why stylists play such pivotal roles when it comes to runway shows. To find out what really goes into putting together a fashion show, from the casting to the styling and creating the vibe, we sat down with Joseph Leone, the stylist and creative consultant behind Emporium Melbourne's Little Bourke Street Runway at this year’s Melbourne Fashion Week. Having worked on campaigns, shoots and shows for the likes of Vogue Australia, Christopher Esber and Oroton, Leone knows what it takes to curate looks that resonate. Here, we get the lowdown on what to expect from this year’s event.

Is there a theme for Emporium’s Melbourne Fashion Week runway? If so, what is your interpretation of that theme?

“When working on group shows, the challenge of having to represent all of the brands in a particular way can feel quite disjointed so having a theme is fairly important for me. I always love to look back on fashion, art and film to get inspiration from the past. The theme for the show was inspired around the ’80s and trying to evoke a modern interpretation of that time.”

What feeling were you trying to create with this runway?

“Not that I was born then, but the feeling of the ’80s is very carefree, fun and experimental. In the context of what Emporium Melbourne provides, they share those fundamental ideas, so staying true to that was important to me.”

When it came to pulling together this runway, where did you start?

“I always love to start with the music and collate a playlist over a few months that I feel resonates with my initial ideas. I then like to look at runways from the past which inform silhouette and fashion inspiration. The rest kind of piggybacks off itself, it's always a big puzzle you are piecing together right up until the models go out on the runway.”

Are there any notable references you relied on for the show?

“The creative team Event Gallery initially pitched the 1980s film Mannequin as one of the show’s main inspirations. From there we’ve kind of curated the 2024 nod to this through all the elements of the show’s creative such as hair and makeup, production and casting.”

What’s the most challenging element of styling a runway?

“I think with anything creative it’s always up for interpretation by all who consume it, so leaning into experimenting is the way to tackle the preparation and maybe not worrying too much about being perfect. There are some non-negotiables, like fit and silhouette as they can very easily inform the viewers’ opinion on whether or not they resonate with the look.”

Do you have a favourite look from the show?

“I don’t have a favourite look from the show, as there are so many to choose from — there’s over 100! But I do love everything that I’ve seen by Et Al. They’re very quintessential Melbourne in their approach and I really appreciate the fabrications and textures that they work with.”

What are you most excited about this M/FW?

“The celebration of milestones within the fashion landscape of Melbourne is something that is quite prevalent in this year‘s shows. I’m really happy and excited to be a part of Emporium Melbourne’s 10 year celebration and showcasing some iconic labels within both the Australian and international fashion landscapes alongside Melbourne Fashion Week’s 30th birthday.”

Image credit: Joseph Leone